Cash, Semi-Tourists, and Creepy Dolls

I often feel I am stuck somewhere in between resident and tourist in Berlin. Although I've been here almost a year, and know the city reasonably well, I can't seem to take a walk without snapping a dozen pics of random things like cute cappuccinos, interesting street art, or weirdly placed shoes at metro stops. Not to mention normal tourist things like monuments and parks. It could just be that Berlin is super interesting, or that I am slightly obsessed with taking pictures, but I think it's partly because I don't totally feel integrated and Berlin still fascinates and surprises me sometimes. It's a nice feeling, really, to walk to work or a friend's house and be surprised by something you see. Sometimes all I have to do is take a slightly different route to get where I'm going, and it's like an entirely new section of the city is opened up to me. Sometimes it's just going somewhere that I've thought about going to for months and just haven't gotten my act together to visit- like the district of Wedding, where a good friend just moved. And sometimes, it's being open to going to a place that's totally standard for a friend and totally new for me. Somewhere like a Balkan flea market in the depths of Neukoelln where a semi-famous artist has filmed a music video:

So last Sunday, I happily accompanied my friend Sophie to this gritty, packed, and not at all touristy (or German) market. A nice departure from the usual Mauer Park trip on Sundays which is full of tourists and hipsters. As I rifled through the one euro sweater bins, underwear with weird English phrases on them, bottles of Head and Shoulders, and boxes of mismatched plates and silverware, I tried to blend in and bargain like a local. But the tourist in me couldn't stop whipping out the camera as each creepy doll, cute parent/child scene, and delightfully intercultural moment graced my eyes.

I even got my beloved Goezleme! Not the crispy, greasy version from the Turkish Market, but a softer, creamier version that was, dare I say it, just as good.

 

Market without a name: U7/Grenzallee by Obi Markt at Grenzallee/Naumburger Strasse 33

Four Seasons of the Maybachufer

November 2011

February 2012

May 2012

September 2012

I've been waiting eagerly to post this number of one of my favorite spots in town. Now that I just passed the 10 month mark in Berlin, and it has very much started to feel like the onset of fall, it was finally time. Anyone who's visited me in Berlin (and was around on a Tuesday or Friday) knows this spot, too. It's home to - what else - the bi-weekly Turkish market and my favorite Goezleme. Let's just say I left work a little early yesterday to take my Dad who's in town, and snapped my final shot.

Kumpir: A Poor Man's Paradise

Slowly but surely this is morphing into a food blog. I am well aware of this fact but not prepared to stop myself any time soon. On that note, today's meal I've deemed worthy of discussion is one I find very successfully blends the German and Turkish food cultures. It's not Gözleme, it's not even Döner Kebab. It's Kumpir: a baked potato like you. have. never. seen.

To make Kumpir, the potato is first baked in an oven where it gets nice and hot. Then the insides are mixed with lots of cheese and butter that melts and gets all gooey. Mmmmm. This step takes time... they really mix it up well.  After the mixing, the expert Kumpir maker nods that he or she is ready for you and you race to the counter to choose your toppings. Common toppings are olives, corn, creamy noodle salads, pickles, tomato sauce, garlic sauce, quark (sour cream), jalapenos, and kisir, a Turkish couscous that is reddened with tomato or red pepper paste. Mmmmmm again.

I've only had Kumpir twice, but I think I have my toppings down. Kisir, tomato sauce, quark, and a vat of jalapenos. I told the woman making mine that I wanted a lot of them, and her eyes widened as I encouraged her to add a second and then third spoonful. Mmmmm spice-ay.

This is what Sophia's Kumpir looks like:

I like mine all mixed together so I get a bit of everything in each bite, so I spend a couple minutes trying to incorporate it all. When you have as many jalapenos as I do, this isn't the easiest task. It's also difficult to be patient and methodical with your stirring when all you want to do is stuff it into your mouth.

Why a poor man's paradise? Because I can't think of anything that gives you more bang for your buck. This thing is loaded with calories- a Kalorienbombe (calorie bomb) as one friend called it- and you can get as many toppings as you want for the same set price. Plus it's truly a monstrosity of a meal. I wasn't able to finish mine either time, so this could easily be shared with a friend, should your topping tastes align. And all for under 5 euros!